The Art of Massage - Taiwanese Style

Adjusting to our new careers and home has been a challenge- both physically and mentally. Standing on our feet teaching all day is difficult on our bodies - as in our rock solid bed. Last Thursday my back was aching and aching - it was the worst it had ever been. So - I started asking around about whether or not a person could get a massage here.
I was told that for most women they go to the spa - but that for men it was a little more difficult as most times a trip to the masseuse meant an encounter with a prostitute - or so our principal Giant told us. Luckily for Jeff that isn't the case - or maybe unluckily. (haha)
Karen and Mark told us that there was a place in the nearby city that you could get a great full body massage - they had been there before and said it was wonderful. They also said they'd be up for going again - so we made plans to head over to Changhua Saturday evening for a night of relaxation - or so we thought.
When we arrived Jeff and I were please to see that the establishment was close to the bus station - because this means that we'll be able to get ourselves there the next time we need a little body therapy. It was a clean place - and the woman at the front desk spoke a tiny bit of English - which is more than many here. So we took off our socks and shoes - slipped into some sandles and were taken to a row of chairs that were connected together and had basins at the foot - where we promptly started soaking our feet in Chinese herbs. It smelled fantastic and felt so wonderful to soak our feet. We were given some tea - there was a t.v. with a couple of Enlish movies playing. It was great.

Then suddenly from the backroom came a crew of people in yellow shirts with towels draped across their arms. It was quite commical as they came marching towards us. They quickly came up behind us draped the towels over our shoulders and started going to work. Wow - gentle is definitely not something they learned in school - it was straight in to work for them. They massaged - or attacked in some cases - our shoulders, head, face and back. The woman that was working on me suddenly pushed me forward in my chair and started throttling my back with her fists. I knew it wasn't meant to hurt - but it was so sudden and with our lack of ability to communicate in Chinese it definitely took me by surprise. Then they left and we stayed to soak a little longer. We were given some great herb tea and were told to 'drink up'.

Then out they marched - this time with paper towels in hand. They quickly dried our feet - got us back into our slippers and took us to our rooms to get undressed. Even the act of getting me onto the massage table was quite quick and forced. They have no qualms about pushing and pulling you into the positions they want you in. We were undressed and put into shorts and a shirt similar to a hospital gown and they draped towels on us and started massaging through both layers. The men were segregated from the women and we were all worked on my people of the same sex.
The massage was definitely intense. Elbows and thumbs working so deep into me at times that I thought I might cry out in pain. Just when I thought I couldn't handle it anymore the woman working on me opened up my hospital gown and heavily draped hot wet towels across my back - and a lot of them. It felt like she must have layered about 10 or more towels on my back and then she draped some kind of plastic over them and wrapped my gown back up. The intensity of the heat felt great.

Then she started working down the backs of my legs. Which almost made me laugh - I'm so ticklish. Then suddenly - she pulled my legs apart and I was thinking "what is she?" and then yep - I felt her crawling up onto the bed between my legs. I couldn't tell what she was doing and all of a sudden there she was STANDING on my butt! I couldn't believe it. She walked all up and down my back and legs pushing and massaging. It was hillarious - it was heavy - it hurt - but there was some relief in it as well. I just couldn't believe it. Not that I hadn't heard of this being done - as I had done a similar exercise in drama class at University - but it was just such a surprise.

After she finished walking all over me came the time to bend and crunch and twist me. She had me in the most hilarious positions. At one point she had one foot on the bed hooked between my crisscrossed legs, one hand on my hip the other on my shoulder and pam - a good swift movement and "crack!" all the way up my back. She had my feet up by my ears, my head between my legs - my arms twisted around her - my fingers pulled and cracked - it was so intense and all I could focus on was trying to stay relaxed and breathing. She had a towel around my neck at one point and was turning my head from side to side when suddenly with one quick swift motion she cracked my neck - one side and then the other. I laughed out loud - she did everything so quickly and with such assuredness. She was working my scalp at one point and it felt like she was just digging her nuckles against my bone. It hurt and sounded very strange - but I figured it must do something good - right?

I've visited many masseuses' (sp?) at home in my time - and it always took a couple of sessions before we started working those 'intimate' areas. Well - not here. She worked anywhere and everywhere. It was hillarious. She worked my stomach a little - which I didn't like too much as I have a very senstive stomach.
The end of the massage had me sitting with my legs crossed and her pulling and pushing and cracking my back. Then she gave me a great big hug from the back and said "shei shei" (thank-you).

I couldn't believe I made it through. At least five times throughout our hour together I had thought to myself "I'll never be able to walk out of here" "What if she breaks something?" "I'm never going to be able to move again this hurts so much" But - I made it and miraculously enough was able to get myself dressed again and headed out to their rest area. The masseuse that had worked on me was waiting there with a cup of tea and escorted me to a seat to sit and relax. finally - relax time!

I was the first out - and laughed so hard when Jeff emerged from his room. He looked exactly like I felt. Totally spent, exhausted and shocked. We sat and laughed while drinking tea - talking about the different things they put us through. I felt like I had just worked out for an hour. Jeff said his experience was very similar to mine - minus the back and bum walking. It was unbelievable. It only cost us around $30 Canadian for this hour of .......well you decide what we should call it. I'm actually really looking forward to my next visit - as at least now I know what to expect.

After the massages we all headed out for supper at a new restaurant - where we ate too much - had great conversation - and went home tired and looking forward to bed.

It was an experience I'll never forget. The Taiwanese must definitely have a different pain threshold than us westerners. If anyone comes to visit bring an extra $30 - you'll love it!!!

Michelle